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The pearl of the Vully fribourgeois



The Vieux Moulin cellar, property of the Derron family, is situated on the shores of Lake Morat in the village of Môtier. This little town shares, with the neighbouring village of Praz, the exclusiveness of the production of Freiburger. Here, overproduction or advertisement campain to sell this speciality are no issues. The whole harvest, almost 10 000 bottles, goes to the connoisseurs.

As Bernard Derron explains, Freiburger requires regular attention. Most of the work is carried out in the vineyard, because the variety is quite sensitive to rot. Care and a lot of sun are therefore required.

On a visual level, Freisamer doesn’t offer the eye a engaging aspect. It produces little bunches with small tight grapes. Greenish specked with little black stains, the grapes are anything but attractive. However, the stocks make up for it with their exuberant foliage. Wings grow in all directions and require, on the winemaker’s part, a real effort to succeed in mastering the vegetation. Constant cutting is needed to get an interesting result.

Bernard Derron only leaves 7 bunches on each stock that will give about 600g of grapes, which represents 4 dl of wine. These modest yields enable the winemakers to elaborate interesting wines. He himself vinifies traditionally, i.e. with a double fermentation and without chaptalization. Other prefer it sweeter of blend it with other varieties to make sweet wines.

Freiburger gives still wines, that struggle to distinguish itself in competitions because of its rusticity and its greenness. These characteristics are also found in its visual aspect. This variety will remain a specialty even though some winemakers in western Switzerland have planted it here or there to use it in blends. According to Bernard Derron, this curiosity will never experience the craze for certain varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc or Gamaret. Despite this, its own character will keep on charming those who look for tasty discoveries, in particular for the vintages that have enjoyed a generous sun exposure.

Alexandre Truffer
Translated by Réjane Piatti
RomanDuVin 2010


[02/11/2010]


Son of Johannisberg and Malvoisie
Freiburger, an obscur specialty from Fribourg
Practical information


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